Porto

10.12.21 — Porto

With a busy few weeks in Madrid over and done with, it was time for a spontaneous weekend away. A couple of holiday days here in Spain allowed me to nip over to Porto in Portugal, a city I’ve been wanting to visit for a good while since I visited Lisbon a couple of times back in 2017.

The trip began with a mad dash to the airport after work with my colleague, Julia, whose family live in Portugal, and so she was also going to spend the weekend in the city. After a very short flight the two of us landed in Porto together, before heading our separate ways as she headed out to the suburbs as I headed into the centre of the old city and to the flat I’d booked for my four-night adventure.

My first task was to run myself a bath, as I’d splashed out a bit on a nice apartment with a fully-equipped bathroom for just that purpose. Popping on some relaxing music and dimming the lights, I lobbed the bath bomb that I’d brought with me into the tub and settled down amongst the bubbles for a relaxing evening in.

The next day I woke to my first view over Porto and my first taste of its weather, with a low fog hanging over the terracotta roofs of the nearby buildings. I still couldn’t head out to explore, however, as it was a Friday and I’d still a full day to work. For this, I set up my laptop, had some leftover food for breakfast, and then began my most extravagant day of remote working ever.

It was somewhat difficult to concentrate on the tasks in hand with such lovely views by my side.

Once work was over, Julia came over, and the two of us headed out to spend our first evening in Porto together. She’d been taking about an Asian fusion restaurant, Boa Bao, which was a real treat – we enjoyed a few different types of bao, a curry, and some delicious sticky noodles. This was all washed down with some delicious cocktails and then one final G&T in another local bar, all before we headed out to grab some pastéis de nata (little sweet custom tarts) at a place that Julia insisted had the best ones in the city – it was a lovely evening!

If you ate some nice food without uploading a story about it, did you really eat it?

I was in no rush to move the next morning, mainly because the mix of drinks had left me with a bit of a dodgy head – I forgot to mention that I also had a shot of ginjinha (a cherry liquor) with my dessert, which may not have been the best idea. Hindsight is a beautiful thing!

The one thing that did eventually motivate me to get out of bed was the beautiful clear skies and the beguiling sun I could see shining from the lovely views of my bedroom – that plus the knowledge that I’d a couple more pastéis de nata waiting for me for breakfast…

Freshly energised, I headed out for my first day of exploration of Porto by day, which wouldn’t take me far from home seeing as I’d grabbed a place smack bang in the centre of the historical centre of the city. I’d decided on where I was going to head to for lunch (thanks to one of Julia’s many recommendations), and so decided to wander around any pretty streets that I found along the way – something I learned to do in Lisbon four years ago.

This was the first time I’d seen the street I was staying on in daylight.

As you can see, the city streets were as charmingly beautiful as I had been told they would be, with a certain quaintness coming from their age and the dilapidated state of man of the buildings along the way. I’m sure I looked rather like a lost tourist as I wandered around aimlessly looking upwards, and that wouldn’t have been too far from the truth – I was in no rush.

A big old city on the side of a hill makes for some interesting architectural solutions.

My walk took me past the São Bento train station, a place I had marked on my map thanks to its striking displays of painted tiles (azulejos), so I headed in to take them in before containing on my way. I eventually found my lunch spot and sat down for a delicious sandwich with was full of succulent pork and local type of gooey cheese. I washed this down with a beer before heading back off on my way.

My afternoon then took me past the Livraria Lello, a gorgeous book shop which inspired the design of certain locations in Harry Potter. I had intended to head in for a visit, but there were huge queues outside, and so I decided to head on and check out a few more sights that Julia had mentioned.

The first place was another spot to see more azulejos (the blue tiles that Portugal is famed for), this time on the side of an old church in the north of the city. There I red into (almost literally) one of the infamous trams of Portugal’s hillside cities before sitting down again for another bite to eat at another local spot that I stumbled across.

I continued on my way after the second half of my lunch, passing through yet more pretty and sometimes empty buildings and down some gorgeous tiny streets with some impressive views. I nipped back home for a quick rest in the mid afternoon, after which I headed back out again and to one of Porto’s most famous landmarks.

Heading back out, I wandered just a few streets away from the one I was staying on and started my descent onto the Ponte de Dom Luís I, a huge double-decker metal arch bridge which spans the River Duoro and which offers some stunning views over the city. I gingerly began my crossing, worried about losing my phone down the gaps in the metal sheeting or being run over by the metro. Yes, you heard that right: the metro runs over the upper deck of the bridge. Moving out the way to let the trains pass and feeling the shaking as they do so was quite the experience!

The sights that began to come into view were quite something.

I’d inadvertently timed my crossing just right, as the sun was beginning to set over the river which splits Porto from it’s neighbouring city, Gaia. As I crossed over into the latter, I snooped down at the sights such as the boats passing by, the expanses of Port wine cellars along the banks of the river, and the general gorgeous views across the hillsides.

Once over in Gaia, the best views of Porto finally came into view, and I headed up to the best vantage point I could find to take a series of shots. I think it’s another one of those times where I don’t really have to explain all that much, as the photos capture the moment pretty well…

After a good while just taking all of my surroundings in, I began to head back down to the bridge in order to head back over to Porto as the sun finally fully set beyond the horizon. I had originally planned to head straight back to the flat, but curiosity got the better of me, and I found myself heading down to the riverside to take in the evening views and atmosphere.

I’d quickly noticed the orange streetlights, which created some interesting colours through the city.

I then headed back home, relaxing with another quick bath in the flat, and then headed back out into the city streets for my evening meal. I eventually wound up back over in Gaia for a traditional cod-based dish and a glass of wine, which took me back over the huge bridge by night – another pretty unique experience!

The meal down by the river was very enjoyable, and I finished it off with a delicious dessert and a glass of Port wine – I mean, it’d have been a crime not to! I then meandered my way back up the steep streets back to base, bedding down to make the most of the Sunday afterwards.

Check out the barrels of port wine on the barges along the riverside.

My Sunday began much the same as the day before – with a morning lazying around in the flat. What eventually got me out the door was a message from Julia, who said we should meet up to eat the city’s most famous dish, the francesinha, for lunch. She insisted that she knew the best place to try out this huge sandwich consisting of bread, ham, linguiça (smoked sausage), chipolata, roast beef, cheese, and a fried egg, all covered in a spicy sauce made with beer – quite the list!

In between these two photos about half an hour passed, and we moved from sun to rain.

As you can imagine, this meal was quite the experience, and I really enjoyed the huge explosion of a sandwich! Whilst we were having lunch it had begun to rain, but the clouds thankfully lifted after we left the restaurant, and so Julia took me to a lovely rooftop bar for a coffee with a view.

After another drink or two in a bar that Julia used to haunt a few years ago, we met up with her brother and another friend to finish off the evening with some beers in a specialist brewpub. There we entered in a whirlwind of languages, with English, Spanish, and Portuguese being thrown around seemingly at random. At least it was a good way to tire me out so I’d get a good last night of sleep!

The next morning was my last day, and so I packed my bag, left the flat, and had a coffee and some breakfast before hopping in a taxi back to the airport. I’d been in Porto for just three and a half days, but I’d had a great rest and not rushed around too much, which was quite nice, as I’m famed for trying to pack in as much as possible whenever I go travelling.

Porto was a lovely city to spend a long weekend in, and I’ve to thank Julia for her recommendations and for spending time to show me around. Although I didn’t do everything on my list, I know now how easy it is to get to from Madrid, and so I’ll surely be back in a warmer season to enjoy the rest of the city that I didn’t manage to see.

Until then, I’ll sign off here with another photo and a quick video that I took from the vantage point in Gaia, looking over Porto and it’s iconic bridge. I took so many photos from up there that I really struggled choosing which to include, so I’ve decided sneak these in as a little extra at the end such as not to overwhelm the post with photos above…

Sing-Song & Sushi Times

06.12.21 — Madrid

After Danni’s visit just a few weeks ago, the month of November has very quickly come and gone, and with it a good few weekends of mischief. Just a day before Danni arrived, my new Dr. Martens boots arrived, and so I made the most of the trip to the airport to start wearing them in – especially apt as they matched my bag! I also spent a few evenings walking around the area and chilling out with friends at home.

One Friday, and after a rather busy day holding another photo shoot in the office, I met up with Sara for an evening meal out. She’d suggested a Japanese restaurant that I’d seen a few times before, and it turned out to be an all-you-can-eat of small dishes delivered by a conveyor belt system. We had a wonderful evening, filling up on sushi and other delights before downing a couple of G&Ts around the city.

I also spent some time conducting a deep clean of my flat that weekend, which involved bringing together all of my plants for their regular pampering (i.e. removal of dead leaves and a good watering). I also tried my hand at a bit of cooking, throwing together my best attempt at a fry-up (a British breakfast) before making some noodles in the evening.

With the next working week coming around, I had another exciting plan in place. That Wednesday, I cycled down through the city centre and to Antón Martín, and to the new offices of a couple of ex-colleagues. There, I was joined by Luis, and the four of us had a wonderful catch up over a bottle of wine. From there, we headed to a friend’s house to carry on the festivities, before winding up in another local bar for some tortilla de patatas (Spanish omelette) and a final glass of wine.

To end that week, me and some colleagues then met up at Citynizer Plaza, where we had some drinks to celebrate the conclusion of another working week. That weekend’s frivolities then continues with a visit from Sara at home, which replaced our original plan of going out for a karaoke night as I was still feeling a bit tired from our night out at Citynizer the night before!

The next week, I spent some more time wearing in my new boots, including cycling through the newly opened Plaza de España (where our office was when I first started working at Erretres) and some more wandering around my local neighbourhood – including the exploration of a dodgy backstreet that I’d never seen before…

Autumn in Madrid is very pretty also frighteningly cold, although it might not look it.

In a break from my wandering, one evening I headed down to Luis’ flat, where we were joined by his friend Carmen for an evening of wine, ramen, and gossip. After a lovely evening with the two of them, my streak of evenings out continued the day after, as Sara and I had rescheduled our karaoke evening. We first headed out to Tapapiés, a tapas trail around the Lavapiés district, before having a few G&Ts and heading to my favourite karaoke joint.

After an evening of energising the crowds with our 2am rendition of the Spice Girls’ “Wannabe”, the two of us spent the Sunday recovering before heading straight back into another working week. My week, however, was to be slightly different, as the Thursday evening I was to leave Madrid to spend a long weekend elsewhere – but that story is for the next blog post!

Danni Swings By

21.11.21 — Madrid

As I mentioned, my sister’s visit wasn’t the last in my run of visits, and a couple of weeks ago I welcomed one of my oldest friends, Danni, to the cool streets of the big city!

The adventures began a Friday after work, when I haded off to El Toril with some colleagues to celebrate one of their birthdays. There, we ordered some of their delicious burgers, and Danni arrived to join in the fun and have lunch with all of us!

The lunch ended with a lovely little surprise courtesy of Inés’ partner, who surprised her with some homemade dessert accompanied with a rowdy rendition of “Cumpleaños feliz” (the Spanish version of “Happy Birthday to You”). We washed our slice of cake down with a shot of crema de orujo, a cream liquor, and then grabbed a taxi back to my flat so that Danni could unpack what little stuff she’d brought with her.

Before heading out for an evening drink, Danni handed me a little gift she’d brought over with her: bonfire lollies! The Friday she’d arrived was the 5th of November – Bonfire Night in the UK – and so naturally we’d to have a bonfire lolly whilst I mounted a questionably safe mini bonfire in an old frying pan…

Ah yes, my indoor bonfire fuelled by gin and paper was very safe.

With the mini bonfire thoroughly extinguished, we headed up to a place that I’d been wanting to visit, but decided to wait to go with Danni as it’s right up her street: the rooftop terrace of the Hard Rock Hotel. Having booked in advance, we arrived only to be told that the terrace was closed due to rain and heavy winds; something which didn’t come as much of a surprise as we’d suffered the horrible weather the entire journey to the hotel!

All wasn’t lost, however, as we were given the option of having a fancy cocktail in the hotel’s restaurant or some drinks in the lobby bar. We opted for the latter so that we could enjoy the live music courtesy of a local band, and so spent a good few hours nattering and soaking up the Hard Rock atmosphere.

We begun the next day with a bit of culture, heading up to a free exhibition in the Fundación Telefonica titled Color. El conocimiento de lo invisible (“Colour: The Knowledge of the Invisible”). This included a lot of installations visualising the hidden workings of colour and light, and so it was right up my street.

After the exhibition, we went for a wander around the city centre, meandering our way down to Lavapiés to have a delicious pizza lunch at the same place I took my parents and my sister. For dessert, we sought out some frozen yoghurt, which we devoured before making a trip to Mercadona to grab some snacks for the rest of Danni’s holiday with me.

The homemade bread and aubergine, cheese, and tomato starter never fails.

That evening took us out back to Lavapiés, where we met up with Luis and some of his friends for drinks. We had a great laugh and a couple of very strong gin and tonics, all before winding up in the new Vurger King (a new vegetarian Burger King that’s opened here) where we stove off a hangover the next day with a burger and a huge Gold Oreo flavoured milkshake.

Keeping the hangover at bay was very important, as the next day we’d a day trip planned to Parque Warner, the Warner Bros. theme park that I’ve been meaning to visit after checking out the other park, Parque de Atracciones, a few months ago. The day begun with a bus journey down to one of Madrid’s main interchanges, where we picked up the theme park tickets and grabbed the bus down to the park.

After queuing up for a while, we were finally in the park, where we immediately set about visiting all of the biggest rides. The two of us are pretty geeky when it comes to roller coasters and theme parks, as evidenced by our frequent trips to our local park, Blackpool Pleasure Beach, from many years ago!

One of our favourite rides was “Superman: Ride of Steel”, a lovely B&M standup coaster.

With the biggest rides ridden, we headed for Correcaminos Bip Bip, a coaster whose name had us giggling as it literally means “Roadrunner Beep Beep”. As the day wore on, the sky began to turn and it began to get cold, but we decided to head into a show called “Loca Academia de Policía” (“Crazy Police Academy”) after we came across a huge queue to get in.

The show turned out to be a big motorbike and supercar stunt show, involving general silliness between some pretty impressive stunts, the likes of which I hadn’t seen since my last visit to Florida a good few years back. The show was a blast, but when we left the arena, it was completely dark and getting pretty cold. We decided to get one last ride in on a boomerang coaster that we’d enjoyed, all before accidentally running into a nighttime parade, during which we had a little dance on the street as the parade floats passed by.

With half an hour to kill before the bus came to pick us up and take us back to the city, we grabbed a festive flavoured hot chocolate and headed out to wait for the bus, arriving home with a kebab in hand to settle down for a relaxed evening after such a long day.

The next day already signalled Danni’s last full day in Madrid, and so we headed out for breakfast at a local bar before heading down to the river to begin our day around the city. After grabbing a bike and having a little cycle around, we headed up to the city centre and carried on our cycling around Retiro, after which we headed to a local restaurant for a tapas-style lunch.

I think this is the most sport I’ve done for a while: a zip line and then a bike ride in the same day…

After lunch, we went for a coffee, dessert and a spot of shopping around Chueca, after which we mounted ourselves back on a bike and went for some sightseeing around the palace area of the city, stopping to watch the sunset from the hillside gardens next to a big church. After this, we headed back home, where we had a relaxed evening with a drink and a takeaway.

The next day, we heeded out for breakfast in the form of churros with chocolate at San Ginés, Madrid’s oldest churrería and a place Danni was keen to head back to. I hadn’t been since before the beginning of the pandemic, so it was lovely to head back and enjoy some delicious churros and porras (like a thicker version of a churro).

From there, we’d then to head to the nearby train station and grab the Cercanías up to the airport, where I waved goodbye to Danni after a fabulous few days spent with her around Madrid. It was great to see her again after almost a whole year, and I’m super excited to see her again when I’m back over in England for the Christmas holidays – which won’t be too long now!

Luz Madrid

13.11.21 — Madrid

Epilepsy Warning: This post contains videos which include flashing lights.

The weekend after another busy week brought plenty of fun stuff to be getting up to, even if the weather was continuing it’s downward spiral as we head into winter. I say winter because the weather in Madrid seems to skip spring and autumn: it’s either unbearably hot or freezing cold!

Despite the chill, I’d made plans to head out for tea at a lovely restaurant in the centre before handing out for some drinks and then to a karaoke with some colleagues. It had been a good while since I last went out, and even longer since I last went to my favourite karaoke bar!

The next day, and having somehow miraculously avoided a hangover, I’d arranged to meet up with some other friends to watch a theatre piece written, directed, and starred in by one of their girlfriends. The comedy, called Reset, was a great laugh and took place in a cute little theatre down in the La Latina district. Once the show was over, we all took shelter from the rain in a nearby bar, where we had a round of gin and tonics whilst awaiting the arrival of the cast. 

As 11pm approached, however, I decided that I simply could not miss the last night of Luz Madrid. This was an event taking place all over the city consisting of light installations across some of Madrid’s most emblematic buildings and spaces. I’d been meaning to go during the first two days of the three-day event, but karaoke plans and the third season of Sex Education had wound up distracting me.

The walk down to the centre from La Latina made me begin to think that perhaps my idea hadn’t been the best, as it began to pour it down with rain the moment I stepped out of the bar. With my brolly in tow I wasn’t fazed, however, and I marched determinedly down towards Cibeles, where the bulk of the installations were taking place. 

The reflections of the city lights looked lovely along the wet streets.

The first light show I stumbled upon turned out to be the most enthralling, as the whole of the gardens of the Cuartel General del Ejército de Tierra (Headquarters of the Spanish Army) had been turned into an interactive light show with music and lasers.

I got closer and stood with my head against the railings for a good while, taking in the surreal atmosphere generated by the “Planum et Lumen” installation by Maxi Gilbert. I’d have wandered in, but there was another spectacle I wanted to witness just down the road.

It doesn’t really show up well on camera, but there was a column of light reaching upwards.

The next installation was “Camino a la Vida” by Juanjo Llorens, which took over the facade of the Cibeles Palace, a beautiful building my dad likes to call the “wedding cake”. This piece illuminated the facade as much as it did the sky, with lasers pointed towards the heavens and spotlights scanning the area from atop the palace.

As I stood in the middle of a closed-off roundabout with my shoes absolutely drenched and the rain coming down heavier and heavier, the clock struck midnight and signalled the end of Luz Madrid. I waded back through the empty streets (everyone with any sense had retreated back home when the torrential rain began) and eventually braved the packed metro back home.

The next day saw a break from the rain, but the cloudy skies prompted me to spend the day having lunch and watching a film at a colleague’s house. After a plato combinado (basically a dish with many different types of food on it), we settled down under some blankets on the settee and watched the Almódovar classic “Mujeres al borde de un ataque de nervios” (titled “Women on the Verge of a Mental Breakdown” in English). I absolutely loved the film, and particularly the song “Soy infeliz”, which I will use to end this blog post…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2-U6tsoGyM

Summer to Autumn

30.10.21 — Madrid

If you keep up with my blog, you’ll know that recently I’ve had plenty of visits: from friends to my parents and then my sister. This wasn’t the end of things, though, as I’d still one visit more to squeeze in as summer turned to autumn: my auntie and uncle!

After Ellie left on the Thursday, the two of them rocked up into Madrid on the Friday, stopping off as they often do for a couple of nights on their way back down to Murcia from the UK. I reunited with them after work, and found them waiting in a bar just by my house.

We went out for tea down at the slaughterhouse that evening, after which it was soon Saturday and time to enjoy their only full day in Madrid. This took us into the centre, where we passed by many of the sights, stopping for a snoop around the Almudena Cathedral on that had enchanted me so during my first visit to Madrid. Breakfast was also quite eventful: it was accompanied by flyovers from the Spanish military to mark their national holiday: Hispanic Day.

The cathedral’s patterned and colourful roof is always a pleasure to photograph.

After this, we headed up to the northern neighbourhood of Malasaña, where I was keen for them to try some potato omelette from one of my favourite bars. There was a big queue out the door, however, and so we headed to another bar and had some tasty lunch there, all before heading home to rest for a while.

That evening, the three of us headed back out for tea at my local restaurant, arriving home ready for their last night staying at mine. The next morning we didn’t have all that much time to do much, having breakfast before heading back down to the car park for them to carry on their journey back down to Murcia.

It was lovely to see the two of them again in Madrid, even if it was a whistle-stop trip! As they left on the Sunday, I had another busy week at work in store afterwards, with some relaxed evenings in order to recover from so much activity recently.

The golden hour as seen from the park next to my office made for a lovely walk back home.

The weekend after my auntie and uncle’s visit was one of semi-forced relaxation, as on Friday – and after two bouts of coronavirus – I was finally able to get my vaccine! Props to the Madrid health service, as the whole procedure was about as easy as going to the fish counter in the supermarket, even if it did leave me a bit feverish for the next couple of days.

I’m finally vaccinated and ready to try to return to some sense of normality!

One evening I did, however, decide to push back against my general state of malaise as I headed out for some wine and food with Sara. We popped down to a local Galician restaurant, where we just about managed to munch our way through three huge plates of seafood and meats. It was absolutely delicious, but left me even more feverish than before. I’ll never learn!

I was fully recovered for Monday and my return back to the office, where another busy but rewarding week awaited me. I was once again kept going by my lovely evening drinks with friends and wanders through the park – even if the cold is now beginning to bite at my toes a bit.

There’s been no better spot to ring my friends back in the UK and across the globe.

And with that, I bring my blog up to date and to this long weekend. I’ve some plans with friends to head out for a drink and even to the theatre tomorrow, so it should prove to be a nice relaxed few days – despite the rain that has descended over Madrid and which won’t giving up until next week.

Fingers crossed that it does lift before Friday – I’ve another important visit coming up, but that’ll have to remain a little secret until closer to the time. Until then!