Vienna Reunion

12.07.23 — Vienna

It’s been pretty much four years to the day since the last reunion of Cake Club, a silly name that Heidi, Loredana, Megan and I have used to refer to the four of us since we all met in Madrid way back in 2018. The last time saw us all four of us meet up in my little flat here in Madrid, and we’ve never managed to organise for more than two of us to be together at once since then.

I have visited all three in their respective cities at least once over the past few years: I nipped over to Oslo to visit Heidi a couple of times, I spent a weekend in Vienna a couple of years ago to visit Loredana, and then me and Megan spent a couple of weeks together last year as part of my month spent around Canada and the US. You can see why it’s such a challenge to get the four of us together: we’re all so spread out!

However, news came that Megan would be visiting Europe in June this year, and so we set wheels in motion to try and all meet up in Vienna to spend our first weekend all together since 2019. As is typical of us, we left things to the last minute, which meant that sadly Heidi couldn’t make it work.

Regardless, I managed to find some decent flights, me and Megan booked a hotel to get out of Loredana and her partner David’s hair for the two nights we’d be together, and the stage was set for a Vienna reunion!


I’d taken the Friday off work and so left my flat bright and early – although not early enough – to head for the airport. With my extra half hour in bed and the slow morning service of the train, I arrived at my terminal somewhat late, which left me on a mad dash through security. Once at my gate, I realised that I’d actually rushed a bit too much and thus had time to spare, and so I sat down and went to check how to get from the airport in Vienna to the hotel I’d booked for me and Megan.

It was then that I realised that I’d booked the hotel for July instead of June. If I remember rightly, I actually audibly laughed at how stupid I’d managed to be. I guess I could have panicked, but I simply waved goodbye to the deposit I’d paid and found and booked another one in a few minutes. I do dislike how online we all are at all times, but a decent mobile with internet proved to be an absolute godsend…

Then followed a three hour flight and an hour on a bus to the centre of Vienna. I then made the short walk to the hotel and checked in, heading from there over to Loredana’s flat where her and Megan were waiting for me.

With the three of us reunited at Loredana’s lovely apartment, we headed out into the garden and sat for a few hours just chatting away and catching up. Although we try to hold regular video calls between the four of us, it was awesome to sit around the table with a cup of tea and have a good old chinwag.

As the afternoon drew on we got peckish and restless, and so we headed out into the city to grab a drink and some nibbles before David joined us for tea. It wasn’t too hot and so I was waxing lyrical about how great the weather was – but then a storm rolled in and suddenly we were all dashing to squeeze under a parasol as it began to absolutely throw it down!

The big rolling clouds should have been a warning of what was to come…

The worst of the rain hit poor David as he headed to the pizza restaurant that we’d headed to for our evening meal: he arrived pretty soaked. Despite then we all had a good laugh and some good pizza, then headed for a local bar to play some games and sample some of the local beer.

After an early start in the hotel, Megan and I pottered down to a bakery where we met Loredana for breakfast. Once we’d eaten our pastries, Megan bade Loredana goodbye as Lore headed off to Munich for the day to celebrate her friend’s hen do. This meant that Megan and I were now alone in Vienna: just like we had been in New York.

So, with all of the possibilities that the city presented to us, what were we to do? Head back to bed and have a three-hour nap, of course!

In our defence, I think this much-needed nap allowed us to carry on the rest of the day in Vienna uninterrupted. We did wake up very hungry, however, and so the first thing on our agenda was to go and grab some food, and Megan had researched the perfect spot to grab some local grub.

As you can appreciate, we’d wound up with eyes bigger than our bellies and so went a bit crazy ordering schnitzel, sausages, potato salad, and sauerkraut. Realistically we’d no idea that the plates were going to be this big, and to our credit we did finish a good amount of it all off. Despite the overwhelming amount of food, it was all delicious and just what we needed to get us energised and ready for a busy afternoon on our feet.

Here’s a little Viennese scene that I managed to snap as the carriage went by.

As Megan had already been in Vienna for a couple of days and I’d already visited back in 2021, neither of us were too fussed about going around all the tourist sites again. We thus indulged in a spot of shopping and then visited a couple of spots that Megan wanted to visit: all I remember was going to see a big door and then touching the naked backside of a bronze man adorning a fountain.

We wound up in the Judenplatz, an area central to Jewish life in the city and the home to a somber Holocaust memorial that we took a look at before sitting down for a cool beer after all this walking around. We hung around in the square until the sun began to go down, whereupon I suggested we head down to the river in order to catch the sunset from there.

I didn’t expect them to have alcohol-free beer but it was pretty good.

Megan hadn’t visited the area down by the river – well technically, the ‘Danube Canal’ or Donaukanal – so it was a nice surprise to see that the area was bustling with activity when we arrived. From cyclists to partygoers to a waterside salsa class, there was much more going on than last time I visited with Loredana.

We headed down to the water’s edge and had a little wander around before settling in a bar for some chips and another drink. Megan and her keen eye for any Spanish speakers noticed that the waiters were Argentinian, so we got chatting away before we took our seats by the water and watched the sun set over the city.

Our idyllic evening drew to a close with Megan wanting to run over and join in the salsa class and me struggling with the local transport app in order to get a ticket for the tram back to the city centre. After my experience in Berlin where I wound up having to pay a 100€+ fine, I’m very cautious about taking foreign public transport without having my ticket sorted in advance!

I eventually got my ticket and persuaded Megan to leave the poor salsa dancers in peace. The two of us hopped on the tram which left us near a spot I wanted to grab some Kaiserschmarrn, the delicious Viennese tradition of shredded pancakes with icing sugar and jam. I’d planned to go to the place Lore took me to last time, but it wound up being very much closed. We did run into a huge rave in front of the Kunsthistorisches Museum, though…

Still hungry and without any sweet treats, Megan said we should go and get some grimy street food from the sausage stall that the tram had dropped us off outside. After her antics at the questionable hotdog trucks in NYC, I shouldn’t have been surprised!

I must admit that the Käsewurst (cheese-filled sausage) that I got shoved inside a hotdog bun really hit the spot, and Megan also very much enjoyed her monster sausage with onions, curry, and sauce! We sat on a bench to finish off a long day in Vienna: it had been fabulous.

Just before heading off on the final tram and in order to digest our greasy street food, we nipped across the road and checked out a nighttime view of the emblematic Hofburg. We then jumped back on another tram and headed off to bed with some pretty serious indigestion…

The next day was Megan’s last in Vienna, so we were up a bit earlier and out to grab some early lunch to make the most of her remaining few hours in the city. After having missed out on our Kaiserschmarrn the night before, I suggested we head to a spot known for making a good one. We had a savoury bite to eat and then shared two huge pans of the shredded pancakes: we’d fallen into the same trap of ordering too much as the day before!

Megan, being a true Vermonter, insisted that the dish could be improved with some maple syrup.

Thankfully the restaurant was happy to send us off with half of the Kaiserschmarrn in doggy bags, so the two of us headed for a wander around the city and one of it’s parks before heading back to the hotel so that Megan could head off on her way and I could check out in order to move into Loredana’s place for my final night in the city.

I eventually had to bid Megan farewell as she headed off to Paris, her last stop on her little tour around Europe, and then threw myself down in the hammock that Loredana and David have installed in their cute little garden. There I rested until Loredana arrived back home from her hen do, which she did looking surprisingly fresh and energised.

We decided that we should probably head out and something for my last afternoon in the city. Heading out into her local neighbourhood, Lore showed me some of her favourite local spots including a huge brewery that left a chunk of the area smelling of yeast. There was a little Bierfestival going on, but it was closed due to it being a Sunday, and so we looked into heading into the centre to see what was going on there.

After missing two trams and not enjoying the sound of waiting for the next infrequent Sunday service, we gave up on our hopes of visiting the centre of Vienna, opting instead to spend the evening at home. We ordered some delicious Korean and Japanese food, had a drink, and threw ourselves down on the sofa to watch “Her”, a film I’d never actually seen.

The next day I said farewell to Loredana and David in the morning as I sat down to work from their living room. I clocked off just before three o’clock in order to head out the door and wander down to Westbahnhof, the bus station where the airport shuttle would whisk me off to the airport for my evening flight back to Madrid.

My flight back was somewhat delayed and then the train from Madrid airport back to my house was broken down, so it wound up being quite a late night in the end. It was all worth it though, as I had an absolutely fabulous few days over in Vienna and seeing Loredana and Megan in person again was absolutely fabulous!

We’re already plotting another reunion as soon as we can, and I’ll definitely be back over to Vienna just as soon as I catch a few days!

From Soaked to Summer

04.07.23 — Madrid

After a rather rainy return to Madrid, the weather shook us with its annual sudden change from spring to summer. From one day to another I found myself in upwards of 35° of heat, so it was time to start making some outdoor plans before the temperature creeps up to a crazy 40°…

One weekend me and Sara met up for the monthly Mercado de Motores, a cool market that I last visited about six months ago. This artesanal event takes place in the Museo del Ferrocarril (Railway Museum) near my house and is a fabulous chance to grab some gifts, buy some delicious food, and stop for a drink and some lunch between some antique trains on the outdoor terrace.

Full of sausage and papas al mojo (roast potatoes in a spicy sauce from the Canary Islands), Sara and I then headed out to continue exploring my neighbourhood. We headed down to the Matadero, had a wander around the river, and made a mental note to come back to the Cervantes Theatre to catch a show at some point.

The city looks pretty again as summer comes around.

To finish off a busy weekend and after a long Sunday of admin at home, I took myself out for an evening trip around the city on a bike. This took me up to the city’s main train station, Atocha; past its most emblematic museum, El Prado; and then to its most iconic park, Retiro. It was a lovely way to cool off as I zipped around the streets of the capital as fast as the bike would let me.

Retiro in the evening without all the tourists becomes the quiet haven it was always mean to be.

The Friday after I was back with Sara for another weekend plan, this time in the form of a verbena, the Spanish term for a big summer party. As it was proudly proclaiming itself as the first verbena in Madrid, we’d decided to head over to a festival named San Antonio de la Florida (Spain isn’t great at keeping names short). There we had a drink and danced along to some hits provided by two national artists as the sun went down.

Danced-out and a little dazed by the summer heat, we then plopped ourselves down on a terrace for some much-needed icy drinks and a good rest as the stifling day gave way to a cool night. From there, Sara headed off back home on the bus as I grabbed a bike and cycled back to my flat in another nighttime ride which helped me unwind and cool off after another busy day.

The next day I fancied a bit of time alone but outside of the confines of my flat. After the worst of the heat had passed in the afternoon, I grabbed a book and headed up to the Debod Temple, a lovely spot to throw oneself on the grass and watch the world go by as the sun sets behind the mountains in the distance. That I did, sipping on my can of alcohol-free beer and people watching in between reading a bit of poetry.

The area around the temple is a lovely spot to unwind.

It’s also a great spot to catch one of Madrid’s gorgeous sunsets.

To round off a weekend spent enjoying some of the city’s best offerings, I decided to head out for an early Sunday morning wander. As these walks around my neighbourhood often do, this led to the area down by the river, where I was one of the first people inside the municipal greenhouse as it opened at 10am sharp.

Inside the intricate glass structure, I enjoyed the cool respite from the sun and disconnected from the world for a few minutes amongst the tropical flora. I was especially captivated by one of the plants whose bright pink colouring was only accentuated by the sun flooding in through the window.

Once I’d left the greenhouse, I grabbed a seat on a terrace overlooking the riverside and ordered myself a large beer to refresh myself after my walk. I can only imagine what it must have looked like as I sat sipping on a pint at half ten in the morning, but as I’m currently not drinking alcohol the beer in question was, of course, non-alcoholic – and very much needed!

This just about covers the last couple of weeks, with the weather’s change from a winteresque washout to a stifling summer causing a change in all my plans. I was going to joke that I’ve switched from staying inside due to the rain to staying inside due to the heat, but I now see that I’ve actually been up to quite a lot! That’s the beauty of this blog, I guess – it’s a good reminder for when my rubbish memory fails me.

Watery Return to Madrid

27.06.23 — Madrid

After the weather was surprisingly warm and dry whilst I was back in the UK, my return back home to Madrid was decidedly less so. My new shoes were put to the test as I wandered the rainy streets of Madrid during the week, all which came to a watery crescendo on the Friday evening.

I left work with my colleague Clara and the two of us hopped on the metro to head to Retiro, Madrid’s most emblematic park and that weekend the location for Madrid’s annual book festival. We’d arranged to go to and see our colleague Carlos, who’s just published his first novel and so was at the fair signing copies!

I’d say he’s our Shakespeare but really he’s more our Cervantes.

We had a few laughs and a good chat with Carlos before the line behind us started getting a bit too long and the skies above us started getting a bit too grey. Me and Clara parted ways and within five minutes of heading off on my own I found myself caught in one of the worst downpours I think I’ve ever experienced in all my time in the city. I arrived at the bus stop soaked to the skin, not even said new shoes could keep out the water!

The photo does’t do it justice but this was a road turned river.

The rest of the weekend was a complete washout also. Needless to say I didn’t really get up to all that much, except one outing which I braved with my brolly. It wasn’t the world’s most demanding excursion, taking me just down the road to the Matadero to catch an exhibition which was in it’s final weekend, but it was worth it.

The exhibit I wanted to catch was an installation called La hoja (‘The leaf’ or ‘sheet’). It covered one of the spaces within the Matadero, forming a sheet of wood which turned up at one of its corners. This was then – much to my delight – illuminated with multicoloured stage lighting which invited you to step on and explore. It was simple but I very much enjoyed it.

I then spent the Sunday with Sara diving in and out of bars around Lavapiés in order to escape the rain and try out some alcohol free beers and the complimentary tapas which keep me so enamoured with Madrid. It was a lovely day, with the rain only hitting just after the two of us got home – great success!

Another calm week between the rain followed, which worked out well in the end as I was consciously saving up my energy ready for the big event I had coming up on the Friday: my pool’s annual swimming competition! Me and María, one of my mates I swim with, had been roped into joining with the premise of beers and a good time afterwards.

It was a complete shock to everyone, then, when our team only went and won the competition for our age range! We’d shown up joking that we’d sit on the side and be the cheerleaders, but wound up acing some of the races along with some new teammates who were, admittedly, probably much better than us…

Even so, we had a hoot during the medal ceremony and the big jump into the pool afterwards, all of which was followed by a late night at one of the local bars. This was great as we actually had the chance to get to know each other a bit more, discovering more than the absolute basics that we exchange between lengths and with ears full of water.

Another laid-back weekend followed under dull skies, but this at least gave me the chance to attempt something I’d been wanting to try my hand out at for a good while: making homemade croquettes. Croquetas, as they’re known here, are a staple of Spanish bar food and one of my favourite dishes, but they’re renowned for being somewhat tricky to make.

I’m happy to say that they came our pretty well, even if I went a bit overboard with the nutmeg and little bits of jamón (cured ham). I’ve since made them again and they’ve come out even better: crunchier on the outside and creamier on the inside. I’m hoping this can somehow count as one more step towards becoming a naturalised Spanish citizen…

Brief Worsthorne Visit

27.05.23 — Burnley

So I was back in the UK just three weeks ago to celebrate my birthday with my family and to catch up with some friends, so I never imagined that I’d be back over again so soon after returning to Madrid to celebrate San Isidro. I wound up booking a flight back to the motherland for a rather somber reason, as my neighbour Audrey sadly passed away a couple of weeks ago. I wanted to be at her funeral as she’d been present throughout my life, from my childhood spent playing in her garden to gossipy chats as an adult.

Despite this, the weather was very optimistic as I landed in Manchester, with more sun and better temperatures than I’d left behind in Madrid. My parents graciously came to pick me up and we headed back home, but not before stopping for an ice cream along the way to make the most of the British summer weather!

Once at their house, we spent the afternoon in the garden, playing game after game of Uno and chatting away as the sun shone down on us. It was a great way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

For tea (what we call an evening meal), we were struggling for ideas until I had a brainwave. I said we should grab some bits from the local village shop and head up to the Singing Ringing Tree to eat them. This oddly-named local landmark is a sculpture in the shape of a tree and formed by a series of metal pipes which ‘sing’ and ‘ring’ in the wind on the top of one of the hills overlooking Burnley. I’d say they sound more like a demonic groan!

We reached the summit just as the sun was beginning its lengthy sunset. We’d brought a picnic blanket in order to throw ourselves down on the ground, but there was just one little table waiting for us which had three working seats – perfect! We set up shop, laid out the delicious food we’d brought, and watched the sunset from the mercifully silent Singing Ringing Tree.

The next day I was back to working from home, but I was motivated by the evening’s plans with Danni which involved her coming up to my parents’ house for a Chinese takeaway and a spot of organising our plans to travel together later this year… exciting!

We absolutely devoured the salt-n-pepper chips and chicken box that Danni had picked up, whereupon I rediscovered the joys of a good curry sauce. We then excitedly organised our trip, had a proper catch up, and ran over some stuff we’re working on together in Figma.

On my last evening in England – it was just a quick three-day visit – it was still sunny and so I dragged my parents out for one last evening walk. This took us through the fields behind our house and back into the village, where we met some adorable cats and bought some of the best crisps going. They’re made in Lancashire, of course!

This needy but gorgeous cat loved posing for the camera.

The next morning I was up at the ungodly hour of 3am in order to get off to catch my 6am flight which would have be back in Spain and at my desk for 10am ready for a day of work. It was a horrifically tiring day, but I have to send many thanks to my parents who both woke up at the crack of dawn with me in order to drop me off at Manchester Airport!

I’m now back at home in Madrid and will hopefully not have to catch any more terribly timed flights again anytime soon…

San Isidro

25.05.23 — Madrid

After a couple of weekends spent in England in order to celebrate my birthday week, the proceeding weekend was then about as local as you can get: it was time to celebrate San Isidro, Madrid’s huge annual party dedicated to the patron saint of the city.

I’d not properly celebrated the event since back in 2019, when me and Bogar took to the pradera (the park where the main celebrations are held) to drink beer, eat kebabs, and enjoy the live music. This year, and with Bogar now living up in Gijón, it was time for something a little different!

Me, Sara, and Rocío met up in Malasaña for some brunch in order to kick off the weekend, where we spent a good few hours eating some delicious food and having a hoot of a time as we laughed about all sorts of stuff. From there, we headed down to Las Vistillas, a park where they were showcasing the chotis, Madrid’s famous dance. I learned that “chotis” (roughly pronounced cho-tees) actually comes from the word “Scottish”, as it’s origins lie in some kind of Celtic dance originating there: I didn’t catch the full story, but it was interesting!

As you can see, we were all donning our traditional clavel (carnation) thanks to a trip I made to the shop to grab some drinks and during which I found these clip-on flowers to celebrate San Isidro in style. One year I’ll don the whole attire, complete with suit and beret, and be a true chulapo!

After admiring the dancing and signing along to ¡Viva Madrid! (“Long live Madrid!”) for a good while, we went for a wander down to the south of the city. This took us past a lovely spot with views over the south of the city, where we stopped to take in the sun and the flowers, before landing on a terrace at one of our favourite spots for a drink and a bite to eat.

Once we’d had some food, Rocío had to head off, but me and Sara carried on our evening as we crossed the Puente de Toledo, one of the city’s oldest bridges. We watched the sun set, danced to some music by one of the street artists, and watched the world go by.

From there we headed down to the Matadero, a cultural centre near my house which was hosting a series of free concerts to celebrate San Isidro. We had a good dance around for a while whilst a band from London were playing their set, but then grew tired and so headed up to my trusty local bar for one last drink and a chat before the night ended.

It was an absolutely wonderful day and the perfect way to celebrate San Isidro. Madrid can be big and overwhelming and way too warm, but the spring weather, people having fun in the street, and endless love songs dedicated to this great city made me fall in love with the capital all over again.

¡Viva Madrid!